Paso Robles: Get a Taste of California’s Secret Wine Country
There’s a well-kept secret on California’s central coast. Midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles lies Paso Robles, a sleepy little town centrally located near mountains, beaches and deserts—a town that also happens to be one of the finest wine-making regions in the United States.
Despite growing up in California, I hadn’t heard much about Paso Robles. It was only after planning a trip there I found out why: everyone wants to keep it for themselves. As soon as I’d discovered it for myself, friends came out of the woodwork to tell me about favorite wine-tasting trips and romantic rendezvous spent there. Paso Robles is what Napa and Sonoma were 20 years ago, before the line of cars piled up to visit that Northern California wine region stretched for miles. A clean, quiet little town filled with people who are enthusiastic about wine, Paso Robles hasn’t realized just how fantastic it really is. Shops don’t necessarily open on the weekend, restaurants close early and open late, and when the hottest thing happening is the release of Alice in Wonderland at the only movie theater for miles, the whole town feels refreshingly light on tourist traps.
El Paso de Robles, or “Pass of the Oaks”, has a scattered population of about 30,000 people. This fairly small group of individuals can’t seem to agree on one thing—how to pronounce the town’s name. We asked everyone we met and the town seems divided fairly evenly between Paso “Robe-ulls” and Paso “Robe-less.” Name aside, one passion prevails: wine. Paso and the surrounding area is home to over 200 wineries, many of which have achieved award-winning success in the U.S. and abroad.
We arrived after a pleasant 3-hour drive, which included a stop in Gilroy for some garlicky food at a local diner. Our hosts at the Hotel Cheval checked us in. Hotel Cheval is a luxury boutique hotel located just off the small square that comprises the heart of Paso Robles. With 16 rooms total, Cheval had a perfect focus on all the little details that made our stay amazing. The in-room fireplace, fresh-baked cookies, wooden shutters on our windows, a private patio, and a charming turn-down service—we arrived back at our room to find the fireplace on and soft music playing, not to mention the horseshoe-shaped chocolates on our pillow—all were designed to delight our senses and envelope us in luxury. This treatment extended through the grounds of the hotel, where you’ll find two outdoor stone wood-burning fireplaces to relax by in the evenings, plus a zinc-topped horseshoe-shaped bar in their Pony Club, where live music can be found on the weekends.
After dropping off our bags it was time to explore. My husband and I like to mix with the locals wherever we go, so naturally we found the nearest pub. Our first stop was The Crooked Kilt, a clean, spritely bar with an attentive bartender. I didn’t try the food—a mix of pub grub, and Irish fare—but the plates were the size of my head and the smell of the garlic fries was intoxicating. Next we shuffled on to the Pine Street Saloon, a real down and dirty cowboy bar. We’re talking cheap beer, stiff drinks, a broken pool table, live country music on the weekends, old fogeys at the bar, and no credit cards. As a big city girl who grew up in the country, I was loving it. But if you’re looking for fancy cocktails or a bar even remotely approaching chic, Pine Street Saloon is not the watering hole for you, my friend. We topped off our evening with dinner at Villa Creek Café, a top recommendation from folks in the area that nevertheless had disappointing food. Their service was impeccable though. A poor-tasting mojito was quickly replaced with a new beverage, and the atmosphere at Villa Creek goes a long way toward making up for the over-priced entrees. After a post-prandial lounge in front of the outdoor fireplace at Hotel Cheval, we went to bed early to get a fresh start the next day.
A little tip: don’t go to bed early in Paso. The town is so sleepy in the mornings you’d think it’s in a coma. We wandered the square and surrounding downtown for over an hour before settling on one of the two diners open for early breakfasts. The Cowgirl Café is a true locals’ joint, with over-sized dishes of biscuits and gravy and monster portions of meat. It’s a heart attack waiting to happen that still serves mimosas, so I was, of course, quite pleased. When the clock finally struck ten, it was time for some of the main street’s businesses to open and we got our first taste of Paso Robles wines from the downtown tasting rooms.
The tasting rooms are genius. With over 200 wineries in Paso, it’s impossible to catch them all in a weekend of driving to vineyards. Give your designated driver a break after a tasting or two on the road and head back to your hotel. Downtown Paso is home to at least 18 tasting rooms within walking distance, including Meritage a tasting room and lounge with counters for 11 different wineries. There we picked up some outstanding port from Roxo Port Cellars. Our first stop, though, was Arroyo Robles, where I fell hard for their Almond Sparkling Wine. As our first tasting room experience we were pleased to find that wine tastings are a mere $5, and with 10 wines on the tasting menu you get great bang for your buck! Most wineries in the area will waive the tasting fee with any purchase, and price points for many Paso wines are much more affordable than in other wine regions I’ve sampled. Now you know why everyone keeps this little town under wraps.
We spent our afternoon exploring what Paso has to offer beyond the wine. A trip to Veris Candles was further proof that Paso doesn’t know how good they are. Owner Lisa Hansen’s wonderful scented soaps and handmade soy and beeswax candles were surprisingly affordable, and perfect for gift-giving. Back downtown we stopped by Studios on the Park a nonprofit arts studio open to the public where you can watch artists create, interact with them, and take a piece home. The artists are an eclectic and talented mix and work with every medium, from photography, to metalwork, to pottery and paint.
For dinner our hosts took us to Il Cortile Ristorante, a new addition to the Paso Robles restaurant scene and a welcome one. I had the hearty handmade Egg Noodle Fettuccine with Mild Sausage, but my tongue was most tingled by the phenomenal appetizers and desserts. Start with beef carpaccio with cream sauce and shaved truffles and end with tiramisu and bite-sized cannoli with scrumptious pistachios and cream.
Our last day in Paso was possibly the finest. First, we headed to RN Estate Vineyard. A true insider’s winery, RN Estate Vineyards doesn’t even have a sign at the road announcing its presence. Tastings and vineyard tours are conducted personally by former chef and restaurateur Roger Nicolas, whose dream for retirement was to open a vineyard and indulge in the love of wine he’d developed over his years in the restaurant industry. Roger pours his wines in the living room of his beautiful home and walks you through the story of each wine. Roger makes small lots of wine that sell out fast, and because of his this he can afford to be less scientific and more artistic in his winemaking. Above all, his chef sensibilities translate into complex wines that simply beg for food to go with them. He describes his wines, already full of layered tastes and beautiful bouquets, as “green apples” ripening in the bottle. If his wine is this good now I look forward to the red, juicy finish. We purchased a bottle to put away for a special day, but that just left me wanting more.
After a lingering lunch at Artisan, a lovely American Bistro with seasonal fare where I enjoyed a vibrant tuna niçoise salad and more handmade pasta, it was time to head home. As we wound through the verdant hills heading back to the Bay Area, I couldn’t help but think wistfully back on all we’d missed in Paso Robles. Horseback riding, visiting nearby Hearst Castle, hot springs and even more vineyards…I began to plan my next Paso adventure before I’d even left.
To Stay:
Hotel Cheval
1021 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-226-9995
To Eat:
Cowgirl Café
1316 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-238-6403
Villa Creek Café
1144 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-238-3000
Il Cortile
608 12th Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-226-0300
Artisan
1401 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-237-8084
To Drink:
Pappy McGregor’s Pub & Grill
1122 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-238-7070
The Pine Street Saloon
1236 Pine St
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-238-1114
Arroyo Robles
739 12th St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-877-759-WINE
RN ESTATE Vineyard and Winery
7986 North River Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446
1-805-610-9802
