Paso Is Pure Delight
A visit to Paso Robles, which is a little more than three hours from San Francisco, reaps huge rewards: gorgeous vistas, verdant hillsides, delicious wines, farm fresh ingredients, and terrific people.
In 1828, the town was named El Paso des Robles (the Pass of the Oaks) for the ubiquitous oak trees. Rebuilt after the 2003 earthquake, Paso Robles—friendly and down-to-earth—is an increasingly popular destination.
Since Paso is a burgeoning wine area, my stay began outside of downtown among the vineyards at the classy and luxe SummerWood Winery & Inn. The contemporary living room and dining room/kitchen are open and airy with a country feel. Each of the nine spacious guestrooms has a patio, fireplace, and modern amenities with yummy bath products featuring cinnamon and basil and black pepper and fennel. Guests are treated to SummerWood wines and appetizers in the afternoon, coffee and dessert each evening, and a farm fresh breakfast in the morning. Favorite wines included two blends: the 2010 Vin Rouge and the 2008 Diosa.
The next night, I chose the Paso Robles Inn, site of the original hot springs and steps from the town center. The inn has partnerships with local vintners, so some rooms are winery-themed and have a hot springs tub on the patio overlooking the lush gardens, koi ponds, and towering oaks. After a long day of wine tasting, there’s nothing more spectacular than soaking in the warm thermal waters from the Paso Robles hot springs in the privacy of your room.
Play & Shop
Paso Robles wine country is the third largest in California, featuring more than 200 wineries (often delineated by their location east or west of Highway 101). With diverse soils, an abundance of limestone, and favorable growing conditions, find everything from Zinfandels to Rhône and Bordeaux varietals and “crazy blends.” Growers in Paso are committed to sustainability, in how they grow their grapes (many are dry farmed) as well as their commitment to their workers. Driving the countryside, I visited:
Lone Madrone: The unique tasting room is a converted barn that sits among the vines with patios (adorned with sculptures and games) and knockout views. Discover blends and rare single varietals such as the 2012 La Mezcla (Granache Blanc and Albariño) and the 2006 Bollo. The grapes are from the limestone hills of Paso’s west side.
Adelaida: Just across the street, savor wine at picnic tables under a pergola. Enjoy hillside views while getting up close and personal with vines and sheep (part of the sustainability plan). The estate wines have a loyal following, including these 2010s: HMR Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir and Michael’s Estate Vineyard Zinfandel.
PasoPort: Located in a restored barn with panoramic views of Paso, dessert wines take center stage. Whether it’s a traditional ruby blend of Portuguese varietals (2008 Brandi), a Californian blend (2009 Ruby with Zinfandel), or any of the tawny blends, they are all rich, aromatic, and flavorful.
AmByth: The owners of this certified biodynamic hilltop winery and farm (with chickens, bees, cows, and olive, fruit, and nut trees) on the east side are passionate about whatever they do. The name means “forever” in Welsh, and it’s the way they look at the land they tend. Stand among the amphoras and barrels and try delicious estate 2010 olive oil and wines, such as the 2010 Venustas (Sangiovese and Tempranillo) and the 2012 Roussanne.
Wild Horse: Named for mustangs that wandered the hillsides, this east side winery has vegetable gardens and pet llamas alongside the vines. On the patio, take in the surrounding beauty as you sample wines from Central Coast grapes. Favorites include the 2012 Viognier and the 2010 Cheval Sauvage (Pinot Noir from the winemaker’s best barrels for each vintage).
Pasolivo Olive Oil: Before heading downtown, this olive grove and tasting room are must-sees. With 11 varietals of olives grown here, it’s fun to match the oils with spices arranged for you as you taste. Find great products to buy.
Downtown, it’s a quick walk across the park to unique shops and the downtown winery trail. Be sure to stop at Firefly Gallery, Reminisce Antiques, and Your Intentions. On “Third Thursdays,” retailers and the wine industry donate a portion of their proceeds to charity.
Inspired by art and ancient philosophies of India, the wines of LXV Wine Lounge use grapes from small-lot west side vineyards. Interesting blends include Crimson Jewel and Rising Tempo (both 2010 Reserves).
Paso Underground features the wines of Aaron, Clos Solene, Edmond August, and Turtle Rock Vineyards. It’s a cool converted garage space (with outdoor patio) to sip wines from up-and-coming small (around 500 cases) west side winemakers.
Burbank Ranch was just opening a tasting room when I visited; now, the bistro is in full swing, too. Don’t miss the 2012 Zinfandel Estate “Fall Colors” and the 2010 Syrah Estate “Sunset.”
Bistro Laurent and Wine Shop has been host to wonderful French cuisine and international wines for 16 years. It’s an intimate, yet informal dining experience both inside and out. I loved the crispy fried shrimp wrapped in phyllo dough, the seafood fricassee with a luscious clam stock, and the succulent lamb sirloin with garlic jus. Wines included a 2010 Zenaida Cellars Zephyr, a 2008 Clavo Cellars Proprietary Blend Collusion, and the 2011 Castoro Cellars Reserve Syrah.
La Cosecha Bar & Restaurant is a local hot spot with large open windows, outside seating, and lots of reclaimed wood. From pan-seared scallops over saffron rice with mushrooms to beef and potato empanadas to the braised beef short ribs in red wine sauce, the Spanish/Latin American-inspired cuisine is dynamic in its use of local ingredients and kicked-up flavors. Wines included the 2012 Jada XCV, the 2010 Minassian-Young Estate Zinfandel, and the 2009 Stanger Reserve Tempranillo.
Villa Creek Restaurant prides itself on local connections—with its ingredients and with the Paso regulars who frequent it. The family-style servings add to its casual style. The chanterelle mushroom risotto and the bone-in rib chops with fork-smashed potatoes were great. Wines included the 2011 Nicora GSM, the 2010 Law Estate Intrepid Syrah, and the 2009 Degher Cabernet Sauvignon.
PATTY BURNESS can be found on Twitter at @pattygb.