Glitz and Glam: Two Nights in Monte Carlo

Rarely does a locale meet my expectations. Whether those expectations are too high and I’m disappointed (Singapore) or too low and I fall in love (Venice), the preconceived notions I form in advance of a trip typically fail to match my reality upon arrival. Monte Carlo was an exception to the rule.

Everything I’d ever heard about Monaco proved to be true: flashy cars, gambling, beautifully manicured and groomed gardens (and people), big yachts and even bigger bling. This was an adult playground for the richest of the rich, and I had two nights to play.

I opted to stay at the Fairmont Monte Carlo. The hotel is located directly along the Monaco Grand Prix circuit on an aptly named turn called the “Fairmont Hairpin” between the Monte Carlo Casino and the Mediterranean Sea.

This prime piece of real estate was an ideal location for my limited time in Monaco. I was within easy walking distance of restaurants, bars, shopping, and nightlife in the heart of Monte Carlo yet could also enjoy the serenity of the Mediterranean Sea and the yachts anchored a short distance from my hotel room’s terrace.

The Fairmont boasts 602 guest rooms and suites, making the hotel one of Europe’s largest. Despite its size, the Fairmont still manages to feel intimate. Guest rooms evoke the experience of sailing on a cruise ship. The door to each guest room has a porthole, and upon entering my room I was greeted by nautical-themed luxury.

The most breathtaking aspect of the Fairmont’s guest rooms is the private terrace, overlooking, rather, overhanging, the Mediterranean Sea. Once I saw the view I had to remind myself I wasn’t actually in a stateroom on a ship in the middle of the ocean. I realized I might have hit upon the perfect vacation combination: a luxury cruiseliner on land where I never had to wait to pull into port for the shore excursions.

Not that I even needed to leave the hotel. The Fairmont Monte Carlo houses a rooftop pool, fitness center, spa, sauna, Turkish steam bath, salon, boutiques, and its own casino, Sun Casino. In addition to on-site amenities, the Fairmont’s concierge can plan a variety of off-property activities for guests, such as sightseeing tours along the French and Italian Rivieras, sailing, tennis, golf, diving, and in the winter, skiing in the Southern Alps. During the summer months, a dedicated “beach concierge” coordinates excursions to nearby beaches, including shuttle transfers, beach amenities, and even a complimentary beach bag for guests.

The Fairmont’s restaurants offer yet another temptation to remain on the boat, er, property. One of the world’s most popular Japanese restaurants, Nobu, is opening a Monte Carlo outpost at the Fairmont in December 2013. With its worldwide celebrity following, Nobu is sure to become one of the latest hot spots in Monaco. Horizon Deck, Restaurant, and Champagne Bar serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner from the Fairmont’s seventh floor, offering 360-degree views of Monte Carlo and the French Riviera.

For a more casual dining experience, guests can order room service or be served lunch poolside from their lounge chair. Or stop in at Saphir 24, a lounge and bar located in the Fairmont’s lobby. Open 24 hours, Saphir 24 transforms itself throughout the day from a casual breakfast spot to afternoon tea setting to pre-dinner cocktail bar to late-night lounge for socializing. Which is exactly how I began my first evening in Monte Carlo, with a cocktail while I sat and enjoyed the view before dinner.

Wanting to get out and explore Monte Carlo, I took the Fairmont concierge’s recommendation and headed to Avenue 31. A self-described modern brasserie, Avenue 31 offers both indoor dining and a covered outdoor terrace where I chose to sit to enjoy the warm evening. The décor combined wood, leather, and stainless steel with contemporary light fixtures, simultaneously giving the restaurant both a cozy and chic feel.

I sampled Avenue 31‘s extensive sushi menu before diving into the French side of the menu with a foie gras terrine, which I then followed up with a creamy lobster risotto. After dinner, Avenue 31’s private car and driver drove me back to the Fairmont. I wasn’t quite ready to go in for the evening so I walked the short distance to the Monte Carlo Casino to try my hand at gambling Monaco style.

Blackjack is my game so I bypassed the roulette and poker tables and saddled up to the blackjack table. Five minutes later and a quick 100€ in my pocket, I was happy with my winnings and pushed back from the table to enjoy some people watching. I walked through the casino, eventually settling on a small banquette to survey the crowd. There appeared to be a mixture of tourists (I had played blackjack next to two guys from California) and locals. Everyone was dressed to the nines.

The next morning I ate breakfast at the Café de Paris on the Place du Casino. I sat outside on the cafe’s patio with my cappuccino and croissant to watch Monte Carlo wake up. I soon realized, however, that Monte Carlo is not a city of morning people; I was nearly the only person around, save for a couple of businessmen in suits sharing a cup of coffee on their way to work.

After breakfast, I spent the morning wandering around Monte Carlo, walking down the steep, winding hills that serve as the Grand Prix course in May of each year. I headed for the water to watch the crews preparing the yachts for the day. When the shops opened I strolled by Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, and Gucci for a little window-shopping. I resisted the couture but couldn’t resist French macarons at Laduree located in the Le Metropole Shopping Center.

I also walked by the Monte Carlo Casino to view it in the light of day. There was a crowd gathered outside excitedly taking pictures. I looked around for what was sure to be an A-list celebrity. Except it wasn’t. What I saw was a crowd ogling a series of luxury cars. The “George Clooney” of the group was an exotic Bugatti sportscar.

After returning to the Fairmont, I spent the rest of the day by the hotel’s rooftop pool, where lunch was delivered to my lounge chair.

When you go out for the evening in Monte Carlo, you better look the part. My first stop that night was the London-based Carol Joy salon conveniently situated in the Fairmont. I booked an appointment for a blowout (called a “brushing” in the UK), and my stylist gave me a shampoo, blow dry, and a head full of soft curls. One little black dress later, and I was ready to go out.

I walked out of the Fairmont and a short distance next door into the Buddha Bar Monte Carlo. I had a late dinner reservation at another restaurant so I sampled Buddha Bar’s dim sum while sipping on a Champagne cocktail called the “Bubble Wap,” made with strawberry purée, raspberry syrup, elderflower, and Champagne. I also tried the “Oh My Dog,” which I chose for its name, but the blend of lime, pomegranate, white-pepper infused gin, lemonade, and raspberry was delicious. Buddha Bar also offered an extensive list of absinthe cocktails, which I wisely stayed away from but could make for a good night on the right evening. And any menu that includes a cocktail called “El Tennessee” (my home state) is a winner in my book.

Sass Café was my next stop. Located on Avenue Princesse Grace, Sass Café is part restaurant, part piano bar, part nightclub, and part celebrity hangout. The restaurant’s tables spill out onto the street, which is where I opted to sit to take advantage of the warm July night. The menu was comprised of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, and I sampled a blend of both—the Gorgonzola gnocchi, which had the perfect subtle hint of blue cheese, and herb-roasted lamb. No sightings of Sass Café regulars such as Brad and Angelina or Bono, but certainly all of the diners seated around me looked as if they could have been international film stars. Like the rest of Monaco, Sass Café is a haven for the beautiful jet setters.

As I walked back to the Fairmont after dinner, I noticed the hotel’s rooftop was lit up and I could hear music playing. Of course I had to investigate. The pool area had been transformed into a bar and lounge called the Billionaire Club. Guests were stretched out on “Love Pods,” round day beds that swiveled, providing either a view of the pool or the Mediterranean Sea. People danced next to the DJ booth, and others gathered in front of the bar drinking cocktails.

My last morning in Monaco, I headed up to the rooftop to eat breakfast at the Fairmont’s Horizon Restaurant. I am not typically a fan of buffets, but I made an exception. It was the largest breakfast spread I’ve ever seen with several stations of freshly made food (omelets, waffles, crepes), fruit, cheese and charcuterie, bacon, sausage, yogurt, granola, cereal, and fresh pastries, including croissants that rivaled any I’d eaten in Paris. I sat outside in the sun where I could overlook the sea, soaking up the last of Monte Carlo. Two nights simply wasn’t enough.

When you go:

Sleep:

Fairmont Monte Carlo
12 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 93 50 65 00

Eat:

Avenue 31
31 Avenue Princesse Grace
+377 97 70 31 31

Cafe de Paris Monte-Carlo
Place du Casino
+377 98 06 76 23

Horizon Restaurant
Fairmont Monte Carlo
12 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 93 50 65 00

Sass Café
11 Avenue Princesse Grace
+377 93 25 52 00

Drink:

Buddha Bar Monte Carlo
Place du Casino
+377 98 06 19 19

Saphir 24 Fairmont Monte Carlo
12 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 93 50 65 00

Play:

Monte Carlo Casino
Place du Casino
+377 98 06 21 21

Sun Casino Fairmont Monte Carlo
12 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 98 06 12 12

Shop:

Cercle d’Or Monte-Carlo (“Golden Circle”)
Avenue Monte-Carlo, Avenue des Beaux Arts, Les Allees Lumieres

Le Metropole Shopping Center
17 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 93 50 15 36

Beauty:

Carol Joy London
Fairmont Monte Carlo
12 Avenue des Spelugues
+377 93 30 80 21