Get Going to Guerneville
Guerneville, situated in the Russian River resort area, is a wonderful town from which to discover this idyllic region. Be active or relax; you win with either choice. The area has been a getaway destination since 1877 when it was first connected to San Francisco via railway.
Soaring redwoods dominate the landscape. And depending on the time of the year, the river is either alive with activity or too cold for visitors to venture in. When my husband and I visited in March, water sports weren’t on the agenda, but the solitude of the beach beckoned for a long walk. Now is the time to take advantage of all the River (as the locals call it) has to offer.
The Applewood Inn, Restaurant & Spa, a romantic hideaway just off Highway 116, offers a much needed respite from the daily grind. Its secluded location boasts luxe accommodations, a heated pool, a sensuous spa, towering redwoods, farm-fresh ingredients at dinner, and a gourmet breakfast. It’s also recognized by Sonoma County as historical landmark No. 129 for Belden House, the original building on the property dating from 1922 (the same year the bridge leading to Guerneville was constructed).
Sonoma County is all about sustainability, and Applewood Inn is no exception. Solar energy predominates, as does composting, organic crops, fruit trees (some original Gravensteins are from the early 1800s), fresh-laid eggs for breakfast, and honeybees—all on the six-acre farm.
The Russian River is hopping in August and Johnson’s Beach is the place to be. Decide your vehicle of pleasure and in minutes you can be tubing, kayaking, or canoeing. Swimming and fishing are options, too. Claim your spot, spread out the blanket, and have a good time.
If land sports are more your thing, then head north out of town about 10 minutes to Armstrong Redwoods State Nature Reserve. Hike the trails, have a picnic, and savor the serenity of the majestic redwoods
The cool climate of the Russian River AVA favors Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the early 1800s, Russian settlers from Fort Ross ventured south and planted some of the first vines in Sonoma (hence the name of the river). Today find lush wines, including those at Korbel, minutes from Guerneville’s center.
Started by three brothers in 1882, Korbel now produces more than one million cases annually. The time-honored tradition of méthode champenoise is the guiding principal of their California champagne production today. The grounds of the winery are spectacular, from the heavenly roses to the historical buildings made of handmade bricks and wood milled by the family. The property includes a railway stop that opened in 1876. There’s even a turret—a replica of a tower at a prison in Bohemia (now the Czech Republic), where one of the Korbel siblings was incarcerated.
In the bustling tasting room there are a wide variety of delicious bubbles from which to choose. Be sure and try these California champagnes: Natural, Brut, and the Blanc de Noirs.
Located minutes southwest of Guerneville in Monte Rio, the Northwood Golf Club is a nine-hole gem. Designed in 1928 by the legendary Alister MacKenzie, the one-of-a-kind links unfold along the River and under 150-foot-tall redwoods.
After a day playing in the River and tasting bubbles, unwind at the Applewood Spa. Melt during a Signature massage that eases muscle tension and soothes your body. For variety, add aromatherapy or warm river rocks.
Find just what you need for your picnic on the beach or in the redwoods at the Big Bottom Market on Main. Or eat in their trendy space that blends the look and feel of a farmers market with an upscale deli. Everything is local, artisanal, and sustainable and combines the best of cheeses, wines, breads, prepared foods, and more. Savor the curried chicken salad by itself (with currents, cashews, and garlic aioli) or incorporated into the Colonel Armstrong sandwich on a warm brioche. Be sure you take home their frozen specialty biscuits.
Stumptown Brewery is the place to laze away the afternoon. You are guaranteed good food, brews, music, and friendly people—all right down by the River. It’s a laidback, casual place with a huge outdoor deck that is the perfect location to take in the scene. The pulled pork sandwich is a must as are the handcrafted beers, such as the Rat Bastard Pale Ale and Blimey the Wanker. The brewery hosts an annual Beer Revival and BBQ Cook-off in August; it is currently in its 12th year.
Built to resemble a barn on the property previously used for apples, the restaurant at Applewood Inn boasts a wooden cathedral ceiling, exposed beams, stone fireplaces (including one that’s floor-to-ceiling), and a separate seating area on the porch. The menu is inspired by what’s been harvested from the garden as well as from local purveyors.
Sunday night is Russian River Night. Enjoy a three-course prix-fixe dinner with no corkage fee if you bring a bottle of Russian River Valley wine. We started with chilled pea soup then savored miso-glazed black cod in a tangy ginger broth with maitake mushrooms and grilled broccoli and pan-seared diver scallops with Mendocino uni and whipped Yukon Gold potatoes. Our sweet ending was a honey cannoli with mascarpone cream and vanilla stewed apricots.
PATTY BURNESS can be found on Twitter at @pattygb.